Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
